...and back along the coast path
I had been promising to walk to my sister Linda's house in Exmouth for ages. So I did (and she very obligingly let me do all my washing there). My plan was to walk inland along the 42 miles of the East Devon Way from Lyme Regis and then back along part of the South West Coast Path. It was an interesting walk across the hills and moors of East Devon, but I still preferred the coast path, even though it was ridiculously steep in parts.
It was novel to walk inland between towns and villages that we would normally drive through on the old road from Lyme to Sidmouth. It was also very wet at times, and wonderfully sunny at others. I really enjoyed waking to the dawn chorus, especially with the addition of ducks and waders at Axmouth and seeing the many robins cheekily approaching my tent each morning.
I didn't count the exact miles, but think about 90 or so in total - not sure how much more you would need to factor in for the hills. Also a diversion inland on the return leg to a) avoid breaking my legs and / or neck on a ridiculously steep downward slope on the way to Branscombe and b) return to the lovely campsite at Salcombe Regis where I had left without paying as their office was closed.
I encountered just a few of my path bugbears - kissing gates that you can't fit through with a big rucksack on, and electric fences barring the path. Despite their training camp at Lympstone, I only had to do one impression of a marine as I went on my hands and knees (with 17kg rucksack still in situ) to crawl under a fallen tree. At other times it was mudslides all the way as I walked through the (steep) wooded undercliff between Seaton and Lyme Regis. Some of the hills between the remote villages of Northleigh and Farway are very challenging and give the stretch of coast path a run for its money.
Of course there were plenty of village pubs to try out along they way and it was a case of having a pint of cider to cool off, or a pint of ale to warm up and dry off. Sometimes both were needed in the same day! However, I only needed to pitch up / pack up a couple of times in the rain and was not nearly as soggy as on the Two Moors Way last year. My new thermarest mattress made sure I slept well and was toasty warm at night - a definite improvement and worth the upgrade. Off to the Isle of Wight for a few days tomorrow with Pete and the big tent - such luxury. Donkey Sanctuary here we come.
It was novel to walk inland between towns and villages that we would normally drive through on the old road from Lyme to Sidmouth. It was also very wet at times, and wonderfully sunny at others. I really enjoyed waking to the dawn chorus, especially with the addition of ducks and waders at Axmouth and seeing the many robins cheekily approaching my tent each morning.
I didn't count the exact miles, but think about 90 or so in total - not sure how much more you would need to factor in for the hills. Also a diversion inland on the return leg to a) avoid breaking my legs and / or neck on a ridiculously steep downward slope on the way to Branscombe and b) return to the lovely campsite at Salcombe Regis where I had left without paying as their office was closed.
I encountered just a few of my path bugbears - kissing gates that you can't fit through with a big rucksack on, and electric fences barring the path. Despite their training camp at Lympstone, I only had to do one impression of a marine as I went on my hands and knees (with 17kg rucksack still in situ) to crawl under a fallen tree. At other times it was mudslides all the way as I walked through the (steep) wooded undercliff between Seaton and Lyme Regis. Some of the hills between the remote villages of Northleigh and Farway are very challenging and give the stretch of coast path a run for its money.
Of course there were plenty of village pubs to try out along they way and it was a case of having a pint of cider to cool off, or a pint of ale to warm up and dry off. Sometimes both were needed in the same day! However, I only needed to pitch up / pack up a couple of times in the rain and was not nearly as soggy as on the Two Moors Way last year. My new thermarest mattress made sure I slept well and was toasty warm at night - a definite improvement and worth the upgrade. Off to the Isle of Wight for a few days tomorrow with Pete and the big tent - such luxury. Donkey Sanctuary here we come.