34 miles from Old Sarum to Sixpenny Handley
The plan was to follow the route of the Ackling Dyke from Salisbury to Badbury Rings near Wimborne. Unfortunately the paths were completely overgrown in places and many diversions were needed. I only got as far as Sixpenny Handley and didn't see much evidence of the ancient Roman road...but I passed through some beautiful villages and enjoyed myself along the way as ever.
Day 1 - Old Sarum to Netherhampton - 11 miles
I was looking forward to Old Sarum, which I thought to be an iron age hill fort along the lines of Badbury Rings or Maiden Castle (near Dorchester). I was surprised to see that there were also the remains of a Norman castle inside and the original Salisbury Cathedral. The castle was built by 1070 for William the Conqueror and the Domesday Book was presented to him there in 1086. Henry II held his wife, Eleanor of Aquitaine, as prisoner there in 1174. A copy of the Magna Carta was sent to Old Sarum Cathedral in 1215. It is a fascinating place - 5000 years of history at this one small plot. From the old castle I followed the river Avon into Salisbury; stopping for a pint before heading over the water meadows (another pint en-route) to my first stretch of roman road to the campsite at Netherhampton - right next to Salisbury racecourse. It was raining VERY heavily by this point, but had the good grace to stop long enough for me to pitch up, and I remained warm and dry through a night of some serious thunderstorms.
Day 2 - Netherhampton to Bishopstone - 9 miles
The twilight zone. I retraced my steps several times but always ended up in the same spot no matter how many different routes I thought I had taken. I got myself in a proper twirl. I got fed up of battling through nettles on very overgrown footpaths, and decided to cut my losses and head for the nearest village so as to regroup / replan over a nice cool pint. Although I did see a hare and a beautiful small church filled with wild flowers. Just so happened to wind up in the gorgeous village of Bishopstone where the pub was closed due to helping with village fete: the Bish Bash. So off I headed. It was like the Dorset Steam Fair in miniature. Engines, big tractors, sheep shearing, ferret racing, local cider a-plenty, a celidh and a band very akin to the Wurzels who handed out tambourines. Having got permission from the wonderful Margaret (organiser of said revels) to pitch up in a corner of the field, I settled down to some serious cider sampling and percussion playing. Such serendipitous fun!
Day 3 - Bishopstone to Sixpenny Handley- 13 miles
Paid in kind for my stay by helping with the litter picking. Ate my breakfast sausages while being eyed rather jealously by two enormous Newfoundland dogs belonging to Margaret, who proceeded to wipe their slobbery chops on my fleece. After wiping down and packing up, I headed for Broad Chalke to get some water from the village shop. Which was shut. So I was obliged to go to the pub again instead! (I only had an orange juice and lemonade this time though and filled up my water bottles). I headed up to an old Ox Drove thinking to go to Tollard Royal, but the path was enclosed by trees, and I was only getting glimpses of the glorious downs. Another rethink and I see that I can actually pick up the Ackling Dyke again, although I was concerned as to the viability of this after yesterday. However, it was much clearer going and I actually got to see some of the original Roman road. Also the Bokerley Ditch, a defensive earth work which marks the old Hampshire / Dorset boundary and some jolly fine tumuli. I was pleased to spy the church tower at Sixpenny Handley as my feet were getting blistery by this point. Must get some new insoles for extra cushioning. I loved the road sign in old money to '6D Handley.' I will have to go back to finish the stretch to Badbury Rings as I think this might be the bit with the best views of the Dyke itself (after all that!) Next stop the Pyrenees for walking with the donkeys. Eeyore.
Day 1 - Old Sarum to Netherhampton - 11 miles
I was looking forward to Old Sarum, which I thought to be an iron age hill fort along the lines of Badbury Rings or Maiden Castle (near Dorchester). I was surprised to see that there were also the remains of a Norman castle inside and the original Salisbury Cathedral. The castle was built by 1070 for William the Conqueror and the Domesday Book was presented to him there in 1086. Henry II held his wife, Eleanor of Aquitaine, as prisoner there in 1174. A copy of the Magna Carta was sent to Old Sarum Cathedral in 1215. It is a fascinating place - 5000 years of history at this one small plot. From the old castle I followed the river Avon into Salisbury; stopping for a pint before heading over the water meadows (another pint en-route) to my first stretch of roman road to the campsite at Netherhampton - right next to Salisbury racecourse. It was raining VERY heavily by this point, but had the good grace to stop long enough for me to pitch up, and I remained warm and dry through a night of some serious thunderstorms.
Day 2 - Netherhampton to Bishopstone - 9 miles
The twilight zone. I retraced my steps several times but always ended up in the same spot no matter how many different routes I thought I had taken. I got myself in a proper twirl. I got fed up of battling through nettles on very overgrown footpaths, and decided to cut my losses and head for the nearest village so as to regroup / replan over a nice cool pint. Although I did see a hare and a beautiful small church filled with wild flowers. Just so happened to wind up in the gorgeous village of Bishopstone where the pub was closed due to helping with village fete: the Bish Bash. So off I headed. It was like the Dorset Steam Fair in miniature. Engines, big tractors, sheep shearing, ferret racing, local cider a-plenty, a celidh and a band very akin to the Wurzels who handed out tambourines. Having got permission from the wonderful Margaret (organiser of said revels) to pitch up in a corner of the field, I settled down to some serious cider sampling and percussion playing. Such serendipitous fun!
Day 3 - Bishopstone to Sixpenny Handley- 13 miles
Paid in kind for my stay by helping with the litter picking. Ate my breakfast sausages while being eyed rather jealously by two enormous Newfoundland dogs belonging to Margaret, who proceeded to wipe their slobbery chops on my fleece. After wiping down and packing up, I headed for Broad Chalke to get some water from the village shop. Which was shut. So I was obliged to go to the pub again instead! (I only had an orange juice and lemonade this time though and filled up my water bottles). I headed up to an old Ox Drove thinking to go to Tollard Royal, but the path was enclosed by trees, and I was only getting glimpses of the glorious downs. Another rethink and I see that I can actually pick up the Ackling Dyke again, although I was concerned as to the viability of this after yesterday. However, it was much clearer going and I actually got to see some of the original Roman road. Also the Bokerley Ditch, a defensive earth work which marks the old Hampshire / Dorset boundary and some jolly fine tumuli. I was pleased to spy the church tower at Sixpenny Handley as my feet were getting blistery by this point. Must get some new insoles for extra cushioning. I loved the road sign in old money to '6D Handley.' I will have to go back to finish the stretch to Badbury Rings as I think this might be the bit with the best views of the Dyke itself (after all that!) Next stop the Pyrenees for walking with the donkeys. Eeyore.