Tour du Mont Blanc
July 2018 (Now we are 50)
I wanted to do something really special for my 50th birthday and had been contemplating the TMB, one of the great walks of the world, for many years. I just thought...do it!!! The 105 mile 'haute route' circuits the mountain block with an accumulated height gain/loss of around 32,800 ft (10,000m) which is about the same as Mt. Everest! Over 10 days, the route passes through France, Italy and Switzerland using ancient mule trails through high passes, amazing glaciers, alpine meadows and charming hamlets. Unfortunately, our bags were not panniered by mules as there was still a lot of snow on the paths, but we lightened our loads, left some things behind at the start point and just wore the same socks a few more times! I was happy to travel alone, but not comfortable to hike solo in such unknown and technical territory, so booked with a small group and a mountain guide.
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Who I went with - CAIRN TREKKING
After much research and my usual spreadsheet, the holiday was booked through CAIRN TREKKING www.cairntrekking.co.uk/. They are a family based company and use only fully qualified and experienced mountain guides. They also are very eco-friendly and never overload their mules (even though we couldn't walk with them this time). Everything was well organised and all the accommodation and meals were included. I only needed to get myself there with my hiking gear. I would be walking in a small group and we would be staying in mountain refuges and dormitories along the way. I was the only Englisher. Our group had couples and friends travelling from Spain, France, Italy and Australia, and a family from the US with a young lad of 13 who did struggle at times, but made it all the way round. Mind you, we all struggled at different times - it was tough! I was nervous about walking with strangers, but you soon get to know each other when you are all together in a dorm!!! They all looked after me as the only person walking alone and insisted I always had the lower bunk and a seat at breakfast.
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Day 1 - Chamonix
My meticulous planning went awry this time....we had a bad fire at home and were out of the house for several weeks before my long anticipated walk. All our hiking gear was either lost or in storage and when I asked for some items to be returned, the cleaning process had ruined the waterproofness of most of my things. So, I had to get some new waterproof gear and clothing, but at least Pete and myself and all the pussy cats were safe and our insurance covered everything. Would not want that to happen again....check your smoke alarms everyone, they saved our house and possibly our lives. Meantime, this had also meant that I had not done as much training walks as I might have liked, and I definitely felt this on the early stages. There is no way this could be described as an easy or even intermediate hike - there are cols and peaks and more cols and more peaks with 6 or 7 hours or so walking each day. But OMG, the scenery was just so stunning. Photos, even professional ones (never mind my snaps) just don't do it justice. I would love Pete to experience this, but he is not a fan of shared sleeping accommodation. It doesn't bother me, and quite frankly you are so tired after a day in the mountains that you would sleep anywhere! Having said that, I didn't sleep well the night before setting off as a) was very excited and b) was still on a camp bed in the living room after the fire. Pete drove me Gatwick for my flight to Geneva then I got the 'Alpy Bus' to Chamonix. My first night was in a basic hostel in an old farmhouse above the town and I was able to leave some non-hiking things in a locker there as I planned to stay an extra day in Chamonix on my return. There was a little tavern across from the hostel and I enjoyed a cold beer whilst eagerly anticipating setting off.
Day 2 - Les Hautes to Refuge de Miage (ups +3638ft/1109m, downs -2998ft/914m)
I kept a diary on the trek, and have finally got round to writing it up (some 3 years later!) Slept reasonably well - my neighbour was a quiet sleeper, I hope I was too. Awoke to the dawn chorus and saw that there were some clouds over the mountain tops and the swifts were flying low, which is always a sign of rain. Watched the sun rise over the Agille du Midi and the snow above the glacier was glowing a pale pink. After breakfast it was off to get the bus to Les Houches to meet my fellow walkers and our wonderful guide Maxim at the start point. Two coffees at the Cafe Telegraphique later, and all 13 of us are there. The American family severely over packed for the mule allowance and held us up a while to reorganise their gear. Only problem was....NO MULES! We were told that there was too much snow across to the Italian side, so that made a sad start. It also meant that we would not have our bags every night, so would need to rough it a bit (nothing new for me there then, I can make a pair of hiking socks last several, if somewhat pongy, days!) Today was tough walking and I was out of practice. Very steep up to Col de Voza beneath the Bionnassay glacier and it was very hot - the threatened rain did not appear. Had a lovely picnic lunch when we stopped at the funicular railway station - Maxim allocated us all some food and drink to carry for lunch each day and we did have some great lunches, he seemed to whip up treats of fantastic cheese and a glug of red wine from nowhere. Then upwards again to Col de Tricot and a suspension bridge over a gorge. Really! Very Indiana Jones. And then some more climbing to the mountain pass. Superb alpine flowers, and then we reached the snow. We heard a crash like thunder - there was an avalanche somewhere close. We finally reached the top of the pass and then the steep descent through mountain pasture to the Refuge du Miage. Knee wrenching. The path had been washed away by snow melts earlier in April so it was difficult terrain. Whilst slowly picking my route, I took the opportunity to observe the wild flowers: gentian, eidelweiss, geraniums, wild roses, buttercups, double-headed ranunculus, forget-me-nots, campanula, clover, wild thyme, cowslips, pyramid orchids, cow parsley, campion, trefoil, scabious. Birds and butterflies - wheatears, orange-tips, red admiral, peacocks, black-and-whites, brimstones and some I did not recognise. Made it to the refuge before the rain came and enjoyed omelette, salad, cheese and raspberry torte for supper. Mixed dorm...hope nobody snores or farts too loudly...soon find out. Need to sleep well, its a 6am start in the morning. My bed is next to the guy who doesn't speak much and keeps himself apart. I don't know where he is from, but he seems friendly. The weather is coming in. The forecast is for rain and thunder tomorrow and a lot more climbing. Ha Ha....just followed the sign for Les Toilettes - out along the river which is in high flood to a hut with a squat hole in the ground which was tres stinky. Just realised as I was muttering and refusing steadfastly to (literally) lower myself, that I noticed I had walked past the actual facilities which were sparkly clean! Need to make sure got head torch handy for any night time loo runs. I have done the equivalent of climbing Mt. Snowdon today.
Day 3 - Passage through Col du Bonhomme (ups +4265ft/1300m, downs -1640ft/500m)
Breakfast was typical of a French gite - bread, home made conserves, coffee, cereals, orange juice. Our first stop was at Refuge le Truc with red geraniums in the window boxes and cows with big swiss bells on. Contamines is quite a big village with an amazing produce market and a very pretty church. I would have bought loads...but I always remember from our guide in the Grand Canyon...ounces make pounds and pounds make pain! So I just had some fresh apricots and ate them instead of having to carry them. From the village we set off through Les Contamines Montjoie nature reserve to the church of Notre Dame de la Gorge with ponies grazing outside. Then up and up along the old Roman road which was neither straight nor flat - not like the Roman roads at home! I think Napoleon brought his army through here (we enter Italy tomorrow). No wonder they starved, it must have been so difficult in the winter. It's tough enough in July. We rested for lunch, my 'spork' snapped. Rubbish! There are lots of troughs with 'eau potable' which is divine because you can wash your face and cool your head and neck if you load up your Buff (aka neck gaiter!) with ice cold water. And so to the Col du Bonhomme and Col du Croix. Serious climbing - more than Ben Nevis. Steep, rocky, snowy, hot but it became easier once we had achieved the first col. We saw some Ibex with enormous horns butting heads. The views were stunning as we came around the second col and saw our refuge. As we sat at our table for dinner, the mountain sheep came right past the refuge. Maxim says that they walk across to the nearby reservoir so that they can lick the salt from the concrete dam. I watched the Ibex come close then head back up the mountain as I ate my supper of beef bourgignon and polenta with homemade bread and soup, nutty tasting beaufort cheese and chocolate cake. The provisions are brought in by helicopter at the start of the season. The staff stay here for the summer walking season (3 months) and walk to the nearest village to pick up fresh produce every day. Makes supper all the more appreciated, as if eating delicious food surrounded by stunning mountain scenery wasn't enough! We managed to avoid the rain again today, but the clouds are coming in. This is quite a busy refuge - about 120 guests and tonight I am in a smaller room with the Australian couple and their son, who I think is about 30. They were absolutely lovely and afforded me plenty of privacy to wash and change. Another great night's sleep beckons.
Day 4 - Entry into Italy through Col de la Seigne (ups +3149ft/960m, downs -3274ft/998m)
And so to Italy. I think we must have walked harder than usual today, because my diary is very stark. I wrote a basic list: Tough climb, beautiful flowers, going down the snow on my backside, beautiful waterfalls, limestone pyramids, glaciers. I remember coming down from Col de Seigne was very steep and several people were shooting down it on their bottoms, using their waterproofs as a slide. Well, I thought it looked fun...and it was! We also visited a local Beaufort cheese factory where there was a huge log fire with a copper vat over it heating the milk. Only 10 local farmers are still making it in this traditional way and it is ridiculously tasty and prohibitively expensive. Although Maxim made a bargain so we have some for our picnics. Yummmmmmmmy. We encountered some mountain bikers today - they were carrying their bikes up to the Refuge. Crazy! Also saw marmutts, a bit like weaselly racoons. Another amazing dinner in the Refuge Elizabetta in Val Veny.
Day 5 - Val Veny to Lac Combal (ups +3608ft/1100m, downs -3937ft/1200m)
I don't know what happened to my photos of the next couple of days, so I will try to find some free images from the internet. Today was a very early start just after we watched the sunrise over the lake and mountains. I didn't write much again today other than the pace was very fast and it felt like a bit of a route march. Perhaps I am tired. There was a steep ascent and then a steep descent into Cormayeur. I had gelato at a cafe there and we had another excellent picnic. Then - you guessed it - another steep climb. I was reminded of Banff. The Refugio Bertone is very high up and Maxim is concerned that there may be thunder tomorrow which could trigger avalanches, so we need to stick closer together. In which case he needs to slow the pace! My knees are huge with bursitis (ibuprofen helps). A couple of others have also asked him to slow down a little and the Americans got the bus out of Cormayeur today. In any case, the refuge is wonderful and we enjoyed another Italian feast. Great showers and comfy beds in a lovely chalet and I saw one of the mules in a field behind us.
Day 6 - Val Ferret (ups +2309ft/704m, downs -2070ft/631m)
Ouch! Another steep climb out from the refuge via Mont de la Saxe at 2584m. Today's walk was over high ridges and it was very challenging with exposed edges and some scrambling. Plenty of ascents and descents up to the Col Sapin then down to the valley floor for a lovely walk crossing several streams through pastureland . I wrote that the pace was still fast but I was proud of myself for keeping up. Also that I was missing Pete and the cats. I had a bit of a wobbly vertigo moment at one of the very steep snow passes, it was vertiginous but Maxim guided us safely. Cormayeur seems like toy town far below. I was a little overwhelmed and tearful today, but the group looked out for me as usual. My walking buddy and upper bunk 'hubby', the super fit Roger who is in his early seventies just calls me 'English' which is funny. I also walk with one of the Italian brothers, Daniel, and tended to his blisters today. Refugio Elena is very big and well set up. Another really warm shower, but the Italian refuges only have squat style toilets (yuk). The wild flowers are beautiful and I was even able to actually consider the lilies as there are Patagonian ones growing here, also azaleas, pinks, gentians and the colours are amazing. Again, much wildlife and loads of caterpillars on the highest passes. As we finally climbed to the refuge, the clouds came rolling over the mountain tops and down the valley. Rainbow earlier. We are averaging about 13 miles a day over technical routes. Everyone complained about the cold today, but it suited me fine - proper English weather with clouds, wind and rain! Maxim says that in the ski season only the English ski in the rain. After dinner a 'friendship cup' with many spouts was passed around. Grappa, coffee and orange zest set alight in the terracotta pot with sugar on the edge with caramelises to keep the lid on as you drink. Had to go around a few times as the pot must not touch the table. The grappa was made by monks at the St Bernard monastery to warm up chilly travellers. It works, but I expect the traditional friendship cup is sadly out of action in these Covid-19 times. Photos from internet.
Day 7 - We enter Switzerland - La Fouly village (ups +2047ft/624m, downs -3608ft/1100m)
Up up to the Grand Col Ferret (2537m) to cross into Switzerland via the Pre de Bar glacier. Mount Dolent is the border of Italy, France and Switzerland and we stopped at a dairy farm on the way down Alpage de la Perle (2071m) for a wonderful hot chocolate made with Swiss chocolate and unpasteurised milk. Great views over Val Ferret and Val Veny. There was an atomic shelter set into the hills just outside the village, Maxim says all the villages have one nearby. The steep descent took us through the forest to a riverside chalet - hotel Eidelweiss. The little village of La Fouly seemed loud after being in the hills, but I think a bike race had just finished. The sleeping arrangements were cosy, we were all squeezed up together in an attic dorm - really just a row of mattresses under the eaves. Made me think about the seven dwarfs! Photos from internet.
Day 8 - Lac de Champex (ups +1968ft/600m, downs -1968ft/600m)
A valley walk, reckoned to be the easiest stage of the TMB, but it had its moments nonetheless. We passed through the medieval village of Praz-de-fort with 400 year old wooden chalets lifted off the ground to keep the grain way from mice. Animals would live in with the people sleeping above. Now mostly holiday homes. Down the valley then up the wooded slopes to Champex, a Swiss holiday village with a lovely lake. Cold swim in knickers and top! Dried out in the sun and we even had time to doze a while after another fine picnic. Our stop over tonight was up a steep path to Relais d'Arpette. Goats with tiny newborn kids - still had their umbilical cords hanging down. Large black Herens cows with huge bells. An early finish, washing done and dried. Photos from internet again...where are mine????
Day 9 - Trient glacier and the Fenetre d'Arpette (ups +2309ft/704m, downs -2952ft/900m)
Unfortunately (although I was quietly glad of the easier route) there had been a lot of snow and a landslip, so the higher route through the Fenetre d'Arpette was closed. So we walked through bovine mountain pasture, although this too entailed a climb of nearly 2000ft. We stopped at a gorgeous very old refuge at Alp Bovine - simple living but no longer used for accommodation, just a small cafe with some very decent cake. Watched as tourists introduced their dog to the cows...DOH! Dog was promptly chased down the hill by said cattle. Then we set off over Col de la Forclaz with views over vineyards, apricot and apple orchards above Martigny and down to Trient with its pink church and very posh hotel. Before that, we walked to the base of the Fenetre where there is a little tea room. From there we got outstanding views of the glacier, also of the devastation wrought by avalanches: trees down like matchsticks and the force of the air pushes them up the other side of the valley too uprooting trees as it goes.
Day 9 - Col de Balme and back into France (ups +2952/900m, downs -2687ft/874m)
Today I had strong words with the Americans (although I felt bad afterwards). They had been racing ahead leaving their son behind for the slower walkers (mostly me) to look after. Now although he is a nice enough lad he is not mine and I am certainly not responsible for his safety. Maxim had already asked Dad to walk together with his family and today there were some very steep sections clambering over exposed rocks at Col du Balme on the border back into France and I was pushing and pulling the son up by his rucksack and reassuring him that he was OK. At least it took my mind of my vertigo and Aussie Roger my bunk 'hubby' had my back. Eventually we got to our lunch stop and there was Dad eating his share of the picnic with no concern for the whereabouts of his wife and child. I called him over to have a quiet word, but what I had rehearsed basically came out as me yelling at him to go and find his family and jolly well look after them. He was not happy with me and stormed away from the group. They all clapped! I gave the lad my chocolate cake and spoke to Mum to say that I wasn't angry with her but just annoyed that he had left them behind again. She said that it was OK because he was cutting the melons for everybody's lunch (???!!!) which led to the quote of the walk from Aussie Dave "I cut the F****ing melons! Anyway, there were stunning views across to the L'Aguilette des Posettes and as we came down towards La Tour Maxim spoke to Dad who came over to apologise and hugged me. All good. They are leaving the walk today as they need to get to Chamonix earlier than we would for their onward travel. After dinner, I finally got the news I had been hoping for - I had been accepted to study for my Nursing degree. I am now Student Nurse Wylie (and as I write this up some 3 years later I am just about to become Registered Nurse Wylie when I get my final results through next month!) Aussie Roger and Italian Daniel bought me a drink each to celebrate. They have really looked after me and are true gentlemen with solid humour and kindness. And so tomorrow is our last day. Its a scary one, it's got ladders.
Day 10 - Lac Blanc with ladders and Back to Chamonix
I've got my own photos back. Lac Blanc is one of the most beautiful alpine lakes high up at 2532m (a whopping 8307ft). I was really looking forward to seeing it, but in fear and trepidation about getting up the iron ladders set vertically into the mountainside. I get vertigo standing on a chair! OMG, it was SO steep. We took the 'passage delicat' with views of the Aiguilles Rouge needle peak. Scrambling over rocks which were almost glowing green with lichens. We saw Ibex just metres away. And then the ladders and the sets of wooden stair rungs set into the rock. I was terrified and wobbly, but I did it! We reached the Lac via Col des Montets, just for that extra bit of steepness. Unfortunately it was foggy and so the views were obscured and the lake mostly iced over. No swimming in your knickers and top in this one (as I had in Champex). Then as we started the steep descent the whole of the north flank of the Mont Blanc range is visible and it is simply stunning. We continued on the Grand Balcon Sud walk of which Alexander Pope wrote "And Alps upon Alps arise." A rocky path dropped us down to La Flegere from where myself, Roger and Daniel decided to save our knees and take the cable car down the remaining 900m into Chamonix. We rested in the shade of a little churchyard opposite the railway station and waited for the rest of our group and our luggage to arrive. Inside the church was a tablet inscribed to a New Zealander who "died of exhaustion" on Mont Blanc in the 1880's. Poor chap. And so we said our farewells then went our separate ways. I tramped up the hill to my first hostel to collect my things and then back down to Hotel Faucigny...a pool, sauna, jacuzzi, fluffy white robes. Heavenly. After breakfast in the garden I spent the next day indulging myself in the spa and exploring the lovely town of Chamonix, savouring those final views of the mountains before heading home. What an experience. I think my knees might never recover, but I will never forget this very special walk.
Dear Diary - final reflections
I jotted down these last few thoughts on the train back from Gatwick
- At what point did the 'special' bottle of San Pellegrino turn into vin rouge?
- And how was Maxim able to maintain this miracle for several days though the tour?
- Maxim said that he doesn't often take a group on all the high variants, but we were up for the challenge and fit enough to take it on. I did it all!
- I'm 50 in 5 days.
- Steak Tartare and prosecco in the airport lounge at Geneva. C'est le dernier cri - and very nice it was too.
- Reviewing photos - there's a mountain, another mountain, a refuge, some snow, some cows...but that does not detract from its utter beauty
- Might be a while before I eat cheese again
- I would like to try snow shoeing at some point and sleep in an igloo
- Aussie Dave said Waltzing Matilda is about the ghost of a man who drowned himself to avoid taxes
- In a circling pattern over Gatwick (there's a storm), England looks beautiful but appears very flat after being in the mountains. Flying over Brighton and the South Downs, and the train home past the Long Man chalk figure at Wilmington and through Arundel has got me thinking. I would like to do the South Downs Way next year (and reader, I did)
- What makes me pleased to be home? Rain, cliffs, seaside, train delays, Donald Trump protesters, rolling fields, green oaks, quaint villages, hares and magpies, Arundel Castle in the early evening glow, real ale, my hubby, my cats.