Donkey Trekking in the Pyrenees
June 2015
I was inspired by the book "The Wisdom of Donkeys" by Andy Merrifield, which I had read a couple of years ago whilst off work with another bout of black dog. Andy searches for tranquility with a friend's donkey, Gribouille, which he borrows to walk through the Haute-Avergne area of Central France. Whilst walking amid ruins and spectacular vistas, Gribouille surprises the author with his subtle wisdom, reminding him time and again that enlightenment is all around us, if we but seek it. On-line research led me to a company called 'Tour Adventure' for a self-guided 5 day walk through the Pyrenees. I was looking forward to taking life at a donkey's pace through some glorious landscapes and hoping to find some of that wisdom and tranquility on offer. I even persuaded Pete to come with me.
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Location, Location, Location
We were in the Aude and Ariege departments of the Midi-Pyrenees. We flew to Tolouse then drove 86 miles south to the ski resort of Ax-les-Thermes. Our walks were a large circle around Prades, to the south east of Ax, and from there we headed back up to the medieval city of Carcassone for a few days of luxury before flying home. Our paths took us along sections of the historic Cathar Way and Route des Bonhommes; both are well known long distance paths in France and Spain. We were not far from Andorra - just 15 miles away at one stage. Another time perhaps.
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Who we went with - they were amazing!
Holiday was booked through TOUR ADVENTURE at http://www.tour-aventure.com/gb/pyrenean-donkey-trek/
Cosmos, our darling donkey was provided by THE DONKEY FARM at http://www.la-ferme-aux-anes.com/
Our mountain refuge was REFUGE DU CHIOULA at http://www.refugeduchioula.com/
Luxurious CARCASSONE B&B via http://www.carcassonnebandb.com/
Cosmos, our darling donkey was provided by THE DONKEY FARM at http://www.la-ferme-aux-anes.com/
Our mountain refuge was REFUGE DU CHIOULA at http://www.refugeduchioula.com/
Luxurious CARCASSONE B&B via http://www.carcassonnebandb.com/
Day 1 - Nous arrivons
We left Bournemouth at 4.30 am under a deluge of rain that fell relentlessly until Gatwick. A short flight later (and yes, I did get frisked at check-in, as usual) and we arrived at Tolouse. But where is our donkey? I thought he would be here to meet us, holding a name card up! There followed a beautiful drive alongside fields of sunflowers, then a climb up into the mountains to our first stop-over at the spa resort of Ax-les-Thermes. Picked up some bread, cured meat, tomatoes, peaches and beer for a late lunch then met our "guide" to take us to the nearby farm where the donkeys live.
We didn't get off to a good start as our guide got lost a couple of times on the way. When we got to the farm, we watched the donkeys come into their field, trot over to the sandpit and take it in turns to roll over and enjoy a dirt bath, we wondered which donkey we would be walking with for the next five days. I got my first horsefly bite within 2 minutes. Our host, Laurence, gave us cold drinks and brought out our info pack - a map and a highlighter pen. That was all. Pete was getting more and more horrified as she highlighted the routes on the map as there were no specific directions or GPS co-ordinates! I thought he was going to go into meltdown when we were told that the walk didn't start from the farm but from another village 30 mins away, with instructions to meet at a restaurant in the village - we'd know it when we got there because there would be a man in the field with our donkey. We were given the waterproof panniers (ex-army issue) which easily fitted our clothes and sleeping bags in. I'm glad we thought to use stuff sacks to keep everything neatly together.
Back to Ax for dinner in a lovely local restaurant and to dip my feet in the thermal waters of the pool outside the old hospital of St. Loius, founded in 1260 for returning Crusaders. So that'll be my leprosy cured then and we're good to go.
We didn't get off to a good start as our guide got lost a couple of times on the way. When we got to the farm, we watched the donkeys come into their field, trot over to the sandpit and take it in turns to roll over and enjoy a dirt bath, we wondered which donkey we would be walking with for the next five days. I got my first horsefly bite within 2 minutes. Our host, Laurence, gave us cold drinks and brought out our info pack - a map and a highlighter pen. That was all. Pete was getting more and more horrified as she highlighted the routes on the map as there were no specific directions or GPS co-ordinates! I thought he was going to go into meltdown when we were told that the walk didn't start from the farm but from another village 30 mins away, with instructions to meet at a restaurant in the village - we'd know it when we got there because there would be a man in the field with our donkey. We were given the waterproof panniers (ex-army issue) which easily fitted our clothes and sleeping bags in. I'm glad we thought to use stuff sacks to keep everything neatly together.
Back to Ax for dinner in a lovely local restaurant and to dip my feet in the thermal waters of the pool outside the old hospital of St. Loius, founded in 1260 for returning Crusaders. So that'll be my leprosy cured then and we're good to go.
Day 2 - In the foothills - Prades to Belcaire 15km or 9m if you prefer
Didn't sleep very well, which I think was down to a mixture of trepidation, excitement and indigestion (the meal was delicious, but very cheesy). Massive thunderstorms overnight took the mugginess out of the air, but also brought the clouds down. I was hoping they would clear as the sun came out. Stocked up with a picnic and a supply of carrots before heading off to the start of our adventure in Prades. We met 'Papa' (Laurence's father) and Cosmos, our long-eared chum. Papa showed us how to fit the panniers and we were given some balm made up from vaseline with oils of lavender, geranium and citronella to help keep the flies away from Cosmos (it didn't really work too well). Our new asinine friend seems most amenable, and he is certainly a looker (I'm talking about Cosmos here, no disrespect to Papa!).
And so we set off across the Aillou plateaux in the foothills and were immediately surrounded by the most gorgeous wild flower meadows. The only downside is that Cosmos comes with his own host of horseflies. They bite me to death no matter what I use to try to repel them. I hate them, and yet they don't bite Pete at all. Our first stop was Montaillou, a tiny hamlet tumbling down the hillside and a centre of Cathar history with its very own ruined castle. Catharism (a dualist religion, not overly dissimilar to but a rival for Catholicism) was revived here in the 14th century. In 1318 the whole village was arrested on the orders of the bishop of Palmiers, Jacques Fournier, who had been a Cisctercian Abbot and who then felt a vocation as an Inquisitor (...were they expecting the Spanish Inquisition???) Unusually, he kept detailed records of the interrogations which are now part of the Vatican archives (Fournier was elected Pope Benedict XII years later).
We discovered Cosmos does not like cows, walking through water or mud or loud noises. He does like eating anything that grows, and is not averse to dragging you over to where his favourite plants (wild roses, young beech shoots, cow parsley and certain long grasses) are. He is patient, gentle and a little bit stubborn; continuously hungry, hard-working and contented. A typical donkey! I love him already.
Our next stop was Camurac, where we hoped for du pain, du vin, du boursin, but everything in the tiny village was closed and we only managed a couple of ice creams. We took the pack off Cosmos and held him while he had a good chomp on the grass on the village green. A couple of passing chaps said 'Bonjour' and took some photos of Cosmos. I read one of the information boards (luckily my rusty French was just sufficient) about the Resistance during WW2. One of the leaders was captured when the Germans took over the town and was forced to watch his fellow villagers being executed before he himself was taken to an extermination camp. He and his fellow members of the Resistance had saved over 100 lives from a sparsely populated area.
We continued up and down forest tracks, glad of the shade, to the large village of Belcaire at the centre of the Plateau de Sault. It took a while to find our hotel, also a stronghold for the Resistance in Belcaire. We eventually settled in and Cosmos was happy in his field directly below the beer garden. The very young daughter of our hosts came over with Maman to feed toast to Cosmos - he loved it! Some Italian guests also took pictures. Cosmos is becoming a star in these parts.
And so we set off across the Aillou plateaux in the foothills and were immediately surrounded by the most gorgeous wild flower meadows. The only downside is that Cosmos comes with his own host of horseflies. They bite me to death no matter what I use to try to repel them. I hate them, and yet they don't bite Pete at all. Our first stop was Montaillou, a tiny hamlet tumbling down the hillside and a centre of Cathar history with its very own ruined castle. Catharism (a dualist religion, not overly dissimilar to but a rival for Catholicism) was revived here in the 14th century. In 1318 the whole village was arrested on the orders of the bishop of Palmiers, Jacques Fournier, who had been a Cisctercian Abbot and who then felt a vocation as an Inquisitor (...were they expecting the Spanish Inquisition???) Unusually, he kept detailed records of the interrogations which are now part of the Vatican archives (Fournier was elected Pope Benedict XII years later).
We discovered Cosmos does not like cows, walking through water or mud or loud noises. He does like eating anything that grows, and is not averse to dragging you over to where his favourite plants (wild roses, young beech shoots, cow parsley and certain long grasses) are. He is patient, gentle and a little bit stubborn; continuously hungry, hard-working and contented. A typical donkey! I love him already.
Our next stop was Camurac, where we hoped for du pain, du vin, du boursin, but everything in the tiny village was closed and we only managed a couple of ice creams. We took the pack off Cosmos and held him while he had a good chomp on the grass on the village green. A couple of passing chaps said 'Bonjour' and took some photos of Cosmos. I read one of the information boards (luckily my rusty French was just sufficient) about the Resistance during WW2. One of the leaders was captured when the Germans took over the town and was forced to watch his fellow villagers being executed before he himself was taken to an extermination camp. He and his fellow members of the Resistance had saved over 100 lives from a sparsely populated area.
We continued up and down forest tracks, glad of the shade, to the large village of Belcaire at the centre of the Plateau de Sault. It took a while to find our hotel, also a stronghold for the Resistance in Belcaire. We eventually settled in and Cosmos was happy in his field directly below the beer garden. The very young daughter of our hosts came over with Maman to feed toast to Cosmos - he loved it! Some Italian guests also took pictures. Cosmos is becoming a star in these parts.
Day 3 - Gaining height - Belcaire to Comus 14.5 km
Got up to an early start to check and groom Cosmos. Today was a day of long, long climbs up and up through forests until we thought there couldn't possibly be any more up (there was). Cosmos became my little cosmonaut as I reckoned we were on the edge of space! We stopped at a refuge hut at a mountain pass for lunch and took it in turns to lead Cosmos through the meadow grass for his repast. On a sandy track he looked like he wanted to roll, so Pete unclipped the lead rope and Cosmos gave himself a soothing dirt bath. He then lay down for a few minutes of post prandial napping. It is a shame that whenever he is still he is besieged by flies - I've never seen so many. Every time we stop moving a swarm descends around his face and where he gets hot - his chest, girth and backside. I now had 9 horsefly bites and my hand had swollen to the point where it felt just like a balloon (...comfortably numb!) Also, I am now particularly well acquainted with our donkey's nether regions. Nothing I like more than to start the day with a game of Donkey Kong - and I don't mean retro Nintendo. A jolly good clean and a generous amount of our vaseline balm infusion 3 times a day to keep the flies at bay. He'll be on a 14 day care plan next!
After our lunch at Col de Lacise the views opened out across the stunning limestone 'Gorges de la Frau'. The Cathar castle of Montsegur was up there somewhere, hidden beneath the clouds. In 1244 the castle fell at the hands of the Inquisition and the so called heretics were all trapped and burned. We dropped down to a beautiful valley - I felt just like Julie Andrews in the Sound of Music, until we were forced to a sudden halt by Cosmos' pack slipping around to a jaunty angle. He remained unruffled throughout while we took everything of and reloaded him. One final drop down to the so, so pretty hamlet of Comus to our gite where the fridge was well stocked with cold beer. I had a very brief conversation with an elderly French homme (wearing the traditional black beret), who told me I needed to carry a stick for the donkey. I made the mistake of telling this to Pete, who had several attempts at donkey wrangling for the rest of the walk. Cosmos was safely installed in a field behind the old church, with as much clover as he can eat. Good times.
We had a superb meal prepared by the hosts at the gite: salad with chorizo, hearty fish stew, cheese and eclairs washed down with some lovely red wine. Went to say goodnight to Cosmos before tucking in myself (and to top him up with the Vaseline mix). He came trotting across the field to us...sooooo cute. I must kidnap him. But how to fit a large donkey into hand luggage? He would be the perfect solution to baggage transfer for when I walk the Two Moors Way. I think we covered at least the equivalent of an ascent and descent of Snowdon today, and at times we were higher than Ben Nevis (1492m at our highest point, the Ben is 1344m).
After our lunch at Col de Lacise the views opened out across the stunning limestone 'Gorges de la Frau'. The Cathar castle of Montsegur was up there somewhere, hidden beneath the clouds. In 1244 the castle fell at the hands of the Inquisition and the so called heretics were all trapped and burned. We dropped down to a beautiful valley - I felt just like Julie Andrews in the Sound of Music, until we were forced to a sudden halt by Cosmos' pack slipping around to a jaunty angle. He remained unruffled throughout while we took everything of and reloaded him. One final drop down to the so, so pretty hamlet of Comus to our gite where the fridge was well stocked with cold beer. I had a very brief conversation with an elderly French homme (wearing the traditional black beret), who told me I needed to carry a stick for the donkey. I made the mistake of telling this to Pete, who had several attempts at donkey wrangling for the rest of the walk. Cosmos was safely installed in a field behind the old church, with as much clover as he can eat. Good times.
We had a superb meal prepared by the hosts at the gite: salad with chorizo, hearty fish stew, cheese and eclairs washed down with some lovely red wine. Went to say goodnight to Cosmos before tucking in myself (and to top him up with the Vaseline mix). He came trotting across the field to us...sooooo cute. I must kidnap him. But how to fit a large donkey into hand luggage? He would be the perfect solution to baggage transfer for when I walk the Two Moors Way. I think we covered at least the equivalent of an ascent and descent of Snowdon today, and at times we were higher than Ben Nevis (1492m at our highest point, the Ben is 1344m).
Day 4 - Gaining more height - Comus to Refuge du Chioula 13km
(plus a little extra to recapture our escapee)
Another amazing walk with truly stunning scenery and plenty more ups and downs. Breakfast was served in the traditional style in the gite i.e. coffee or hot chocolate in bowls into which you dipped your bread and honey. The local honey was superb. Pete had to ask for a mug for his coffee - he is so British!
We set off on our first very steep climb of the day, which seemed to go on for ever until we reached a plateau with panaromic views over the snow capped peaks and limestone gorges, beech forests, lush valleys and sunny plains. We rested a while and let Cosmos enjoy his lunch....and then, disaster struck! I think he was spooked by the bells of an enormous herd of cows (which we know he hates) and ran off at great speed while we were trying to put his pack on. It was a case of let him go or skin both hands with rope burn. So off he galloped down the hill, around the cows and away along the path, finally settling about three quarters of a mile downhill of our bags. I couldn't help laughing a bit as we scurried down after him with me shouting "Arret, Arret" and Pete grabbing the bag of carrots. I slowly approached him, making yummy noises as I pretended to eat a carrot, then his good nature got the better of him and he let me catch him, thank goodness! I don't know how we did it, but we managed to frog march (pun not intended) him back through the herd, also past the very large bull and back up the hill to load him up once more. On the way back there was a cow bell on the path, and Cosmos spooked and wouldn't even walk past it. Odd. I wonder if all donkeys dislike cows in the same way all horses dislike pigs?
The refuge is very basic, and we are the only people staying there - but it is only the start of the summer season and passing walkers stop by for lunch and a drink and we enjoy chatting in 'Franglais.' The owner, Alvaro, is married to Laurence (daughter of Papa and runner of the donkey farm). The farm is also home to a large herd of pyrenean cattle, so we knew our beef stew was very locally sourced indeed. We are high up at 1524 m, and the highest point of today's walk was 1690 m (5545 ft).
Cosmos has settled in perfectly. Papa arrived with a trailer full of hay for him and set up one of those round metal mangers. There had been a fire in the field and Cosmos particularly enjoyed rolling in the ashes, which I think also helps to keep the flies away. We are deciding whether to give him the day off tomorrow as there are a choice of circular walks from the refuge (we are here for 2 nights). Just to let you know...in 'that' photo, it's not what it seems. It's just me applying the balm to his nether regions!
We set off on our first very steep climb of the day, which seemed to go on for ever until we reached a plateau with panaromic views over the snow capped peaks and limestone gorges, beech forests, lush valleys and sunny plains. We rested a while and let Cosmos enjoy his lunch....and then, disaster struck! I think he was spooked by the bells of an enormous herd of cows (which we know he hates) and ran off at great speed while we were trying to put his pack on. It was a case of let him go or skin both hands with rope burn. So off he galloped down the hill, around the cows and away along the path, finally settling about three quarters of a mile downhill of our bags. I couldn't help laughing a bit as we scurried down after him with me shouting "Arret, Arret" and Pete grabbing the bag of carrots. I slowly approached him, making yummy noises as I pretended to eat a carrot, then his good nature got the better of him and he let me catch him, thank goodness! I don't know how we did it, but we managed to frog march (pun not intended) him back through the herd, also past the very large bull and back up the hill to load him up once more. On the way back there was a cow bell on the path, and Cosmos spooked and wouldn't even walk past it. Odd. I wonder if all donkeys dislike cows in the same way all horses dislike pigs?
The refuge is very basic, and we are the only people staying there - but it is only the start of the summer season and passing walkers stop by for lunch and a drink and we enjoy chatting in 'Franglais.' The owner, Alvaro, is married to Laurence (daughter of Papa and runner of the donkey farm). The farm is also home to a large herd of pyrenean cattle, so we knew our beef stew was very locally sourced indeed. We are high up at 1524 m, and the highest point of today's walk was 1690 m (5545 ft).
Cosmos has settled in perfectly. Papa arrived with a trailer full of hay for him and set up one of those round metal mangers. There had been a fire in the field and Cosmos particularly enjoyed rolling in the ashes, which I think also helps to keep the flies away. We are deciding whether to give him the day off tomorrow as there are a choice of circular walks from the refuge (we are here for 2 nights). Just to let you know...in 'that' photo, it's not what it seems. It's just me applying the balm to his nether regions!
Day 5 - Circular trails around Refuge du Chioula
A simple breakfast, followed by a good brushing of a very dirty donkey, who promptly rolled straight back in the ash again as soon as I had finished. Did a short walk in the morning, taking Cosmos without any pack, and coming back to the Refuge for a lovely lunch of omelette and salad with bread and wine. Naturally this was followed up with a long siesta, listening to cow bells as we lay in the sun. You can see the ski slopes up the opposite valley, but I'm still not inspired to try. As the cows get nearer, Cosmos runs for cover, abandoning his favoured fire pit for the trees.
This morning we were watching lizards come up onto the wooden decking to warm themselves; also there are so many butterflies and such amazing views. It is really peaceful and beautiful here.
Pete extended his siesta, enjoying another couple of very tasty vin rouges, while I walked a 6 mile circuit to the 'Signal Du Chioula' viewpoint. Cosmos also had the afternoon off. Good views over to the world's largest talc quarry at Luzenac, which is also a nature reserve (I guess that must be the parts they have finished working). Talc has been extracted from that area since at least 14,000 years ago and used in cave paintings in the area. The Cathars used in in the 11th to 13th centuries to make sculptures. Now the mine is run by Rio Tinto and the talc is used in making polymers, producing 400,000 tonnes a year. Several redstarts were flying in the forest, linnets by the path and a black kite (milvus migrans) overhead. There were masses of tall yellow flowers (which I now know are gentians) and broom lining the path back to the refuge. We've seen so many wild flowers including wild strawberries and several types of orchid. I can't identify all the different buttterflies - the ID books back at the refuge are in French, which I can just about figure out for birds and plants (as they also show the latin names), but not for 'les papillons.'
I can't believe that tomorrow is our last day with Cosmos. I'm admiring my suntan, but I don't know if I'm genuinely brown or just covered in soot until I shower later. I've been washing my face and arms in between walks today as I appear to be frightfully working class otherwise (like some sort of collier, perhaps). I mean, really!! I keep thinking about our accommodation and how rural we are - definately not 5 star. But it has been really enjoyable and would consider a similar trip in the not too distant future - I'm thinking ahead already! And so to another hearty meal and a good night's sleep.
This morning we were watching lizards come up onto the wooden decking to warm themselves; also there are so many butterflies and such amazing views. It is really peaceful and beautiful here.
Pete extended his siesta, enjoying another couple of very tasty vin rouges, while I walked a 6 mile circuit to the 'Signal Du Chioula' viewpoint. Cosmos also had the afternoon off. Good views over to the world's largest talc quarry at Luzenac, which is also a nature reserve (I guess that must be the parts they have finished working). Talc has been extracted from that area since at least 14,000 years ago and used in cave paintings in the area. The Cathars used in in the 11th to 13th centuries to make sculptures. Now the mine is run by Rio Tinto and the talc is used in making polymers, producing 400,000 tonnes a year. Several redstarts were flying in the forest, linnets by the path and a black kite (milvus migrans) overhead. There were masses of tall yellow flowers (which I now know are gentians) and broom lining the path back to the refuge. We've seen so many wild flowers including wild strawberries and several types of orchid. I can't identify all the different buttterflies - the ID books back at the refuge are in French, which I can just about figure out for birds and plants (as they also show the latin names), but not for 'les papillons.'
I can't believe that tomorrow is our last day with Cosmos. I'm admiring my suntan, but I don't know if I'm genuinely brown or just covered in soot until I shower later. I've been washing my face and arms in between walks today as I appear to be frightfully working class otherwise (like some sort of collier, perhaps). I mean, really!! I keep thinking about our accommodation and how rural we are - definately not 5 star. But it has been really enjoyable and would consider a similar trip in the not too distant future - I'm thinking ahead already! And so to another hearty meal and a good night's sleep.
Day 6 - Refuge du Chioula to Prades 11km
It was very special to wake early this morning and be alone, with clear views of the mountains all around. As usual, my first job was to groom Cosmos - and this time we left him in the front of the refuge so he couldn't roll back in the ashes again! I gave him his last carrot and the bread left over from breakfast, and annointed his nether regions for the last time before packing him up and heading away from our refuge and back to our starting point at Prades. Downhill all the way you would think? Well, think again. There were some serious climbs up to Col de Balagues (up at over 1600 m again). Once again we followed the GR107 - the Chemin des Bonshommes - which retraces the journey of the last of the Cathar people escaping the Inquisition into Catalonia in Spain. It was interesting to see the clouds come rolling down the valleys as we descended from the higher mountains.
As we passed through the tiny hamlet of Montaillou for the second time we met with the same chaps who had taken our photo 4 days ago! Cosmos decided to take one final detour off the path and refused to budge until he had taken me on the 'wrong turning.' However, his donkey senses were right again as he had led us to a fast flowing stream so he could have a cooling drink.
All too soon we came to our final stretch through the pretty village of Prades where we were to say goodbye to our noble (if occasionally belligerent) friend and head off for further adventures in Carcassone and Tolouse.
And so, what have I learned from the wisdom of donkeys?
Missing you already Cosmos, champion bag carrier and long-eared friend X
As we passed through the tiny hamlet of Montaillou for the second time we met with the same chaps who had taken our photo 4 days ago! Cosmos decided to take one final detour off the path and refused to budge until he had taken me on the 'wrong turning.' However, his donkey senses were right again as he had led us to a fast flowing stream so he could have a cooling drink.
All too soon we came to our final stretch through the pretty village of Prades where we were to say goodbye to our noble (if occasionally belligerent) friend and head off for further adventures in Carcassone and Tolouse.
And so, what have I learned from the wisdom of donkeys?
- Trust your instincts - if you think a path is right for you, it probably is
- Carpe Diem - Eat, drink and be merry while you can - you never know when that next patch of clover might come along
- Take life at your own pace and do things your own sweet way.
Missing you already Cosmos, champion bag carrier and long-eared friend X