Day 12 - Danby Wiske to Osmotherley
04.07.13
DISTANCE WALKED: 11.8 miles
Today I finally reached the Cleveland Hills that were a distant vision from Richmond two days ago. It was another flat day across fields and forest tracks, but hardly any of it was on lanes, so it was much kinder on the feet and legs. It felt like a more optimistic day as I started off towards Osmotherley, and indeed as the sun shone and the smell of clover rose up from the fields it was a much nicer walk than yesterday.
No navigational skills required today - just set compass to east and keep going until you hit the hills. AW comments "those who believe the earth is flat will be mightily encouraged on this section," in fact it is so complanate that had Aristotle lived here we might all still be flat-earthers. Not far from Danby Wiske is the site of the Battle of the Standard, a ruck with the Scots in 1139, with a win to the English that time. Tracks and quite backroads link a series of busy farms. At one point I had to cross a railway line. I was most concerned that I would trip and break my leg (or possibly even both legs) and be obliged to lie helplessly across the tracks in the style of the 'Perils of Pauline'. It didn't help that some wag had put a life-sized human skull at the top of the stile. And if that wasn't danger enough for one day, I also had to cross all four lanes of the busy A19 without even a footbridge!
All this excitement brought me to the villages of Ingleby Arncliffe, where there is a handsome stone water tower and then to Ingleby Cross, with its poignant war memorial. It is impossible to imagine the devastation that having so many men lost from such small communities must have brought. And then my first climb in two days. Up through woods above the hidden ruins of Mount Grace Priory (apparently well worth a visit, but too far off the track for today) to meet the Cleveland Way and my turn off for Osmotherley.
The village is delightful, with terraced stone cottages built mainly for the workers at the local flax mill, which is now the youth hostel. Linen from Osmotherley was used in making the wings for early aircraft. In the centre of the village stands the market cross and a barter table, believed to be the same one that John Wesley preached from. The Methodist chapel, down a tiny lane dates right back to 1754. I got there in plenty of time for a delicious vanilla and almond toffee ice cream cone (with a flake, of course) and to wash tops and socks again. As I was here just after 2pm, I hadn't even eaten my packed lunch, so I had that for dinner instead. Very early night tonight, as tomorrow is my longest section - 21 miles over the moors to Blakey Ridge which the book describes as "gruelling". I have stocked up on supplies from the village store, including a bag of peanut M&M's which should help! My landlord is an actual commercial bee farmer, so I'm looking forward to trying the local heather honey with my toast in the morning.
Today's tunes were Banarama "Robert De Niro's Waiting," Elvis "Suspicious Minds" and the Rolling Stones "Ruby Tuesday" Stats healthy.
Odometer
12.3 miles
Cumulative Miles
157
Total Ascent
345 metres
Total Descent
257 metres
Moving Time
3h 54 m
Stopped Time
1h 3m
Moving Average
3.2 mph
Today I finally reached the Cleveland Hills that were a distant vision from Richmond two days ago. It was another flat day across fields and forest tracks, but hardly any of it was on lanes, so it was much kinder on the feet and legs. It felt like a more optimistic day as I started off towards Osmotherley, and indeed as the sun shone and the smell of clover rose up from the fields it was a much nicer walk than yesterday.
No navigational skills required today - just set compass to east and keep going until you hit the hills. AW comments "those who believe the earth is flat will be mightily encouraged on this section," in fact it is so complanate that had Aristotle lived here we might all still be flat-earthers. Not far from Danby Wiske is the site of the Battle of the Standard, a ruck with the Scots in 1139, with a win to the English that time. Tracks and quite backroads link a series of busy farms. At one point I had to cross a railway line. I was most concerned that I would trip and break my leg (or possibly even both legs) and be obliged to lie helplessly across the tracks in the style of the 'Perils of Pauline'. It didn't help that some wag had put a life-sized human skull at the top of the stile. And if that wasn't danger enough for one day, I also had to cross all four lanes of the busy A19 without even a footbridge!
All this excitement brought me to the villages of Ingleby Arncliffe, where there is a handsome stone water tower and then to Ingleby Cross, with its poignant war memorial. It is impossible to imagine the devastation that having so many men lost from such small communities must have brought. And then my first climb in two days. Up through woods above the hidden ruins of Mount Grace Priory (apparently well worth a visit, but too far off the track for today) to meet the Cleveland Way and my turn off for Osmotherley.
The village is delightful, with terraced stone cottages built mainly for the workers at the local flax mill, which is now the youth hostel. Linen from Osmotherley was used in making the wings for early aircraft. In the centre of the village stands the market cross and a barter table, believed to be the same one that John Wesley preached from. The Methodist chapel, down a tiny lane dates right back to 1754. I got there in plenty of time for a delicious vanilla and almond toffee ice cream cone (with a flake, of course) and to wash tops and socks again. As I was here just after 2pm, I hadn't even eaten my packed lunch, so I had that for dinner instead. Very early night tonight, as tomorrow is my longest section - 21 miles over the moors to Blakey Ridge which the book describes as "gruelling". I have stocked up on supplies from the village store, including a bag of peanut M&M's which should help! My landlord is an actual commercial bee farmer, so I'm looking forward to trying the local heather honey with my toast in the morning.
Today's tunes were Banarama "Robert De Niro's Waiting," Elvis "Suspicious Minds" and the Rolling Stones "Ruby Tuesday" Stats healthy.
Odometer
12.3 miles
Cumulative Miles
157
Total Ascent
345 metres
Total Descent
257 metres
Moving Time
3h 54 m
Stopped Time
1h 3m
Moving Average
3.2 mph