Day 7 - Orton to Kirkby Stephen
29.06.13
DISTANCE WALKED: 14.1 miles
The walk to Kirkby (pronounced Kirby) Stephen was pleasant enough as it transited field and moorland across the Upper Eden Valley and the Howgill Fells. AW mentions several prehistoric sites along the way, though I would agree with the Stedman guide that none of them will make you drop your jaw in amazement, and if you didn't know about them you'd probably pass by none the wiser but still cheered by another great day aboard the C2C path. Best of all though, it didn't rain today!
As a case in point, may I present to you the stone circle just outside Orton. It's not exactly Stonehenge. I think the sheep were quite amused to see me even bothering with the camera there. Apparently this is even more impressive than one I missed yesterday. From here, it was a simple case of heading east all the way, across Tarn Moor to the bird hides at Sunbiggin Tarn where lapwings, curlews and oystercatchers were seen. Also the group of 20 or so cyclists that were making a racket at my hotel in Orton last night (but that was thankfully the last I saw of them).
It was then a matter of tracing dry stone walls across Ravenstonedale Moor with its limestone escarpments to reach the 'Severals,' another important yet barely recognisable important archaeological site. The sun was peeping through at this time, but there were still dark clouds overhead. Having been bitten practically to death by blasted midges in my hair yesterday I wore a hat today thinking to foil them. But the blighters just bit my neck instead. I think the hat did serve as a kind of thinking cap though as my thoughts did have a bit more of a meaning of life bent today (in a good way).
Once the settlements have been thoroughly examined (by walking straight past them), the route drops down across Scandal Beck, and I got a wonderful view of the Smardale Gill viaduct before heading up Smardale Fell. The viaduct was part of the South Durham and Lancashire Union Railway and was closed in 1962. It fell into disrepair but is now a listed building maintained by charitable trust. I may have said it before, but I do like a good viaduct. I was looking out for the 'Giant's Graves' (pillow mounds) on the side of the fell but although I saw them, they are not a patch on the barrows we have in Dorset!
And then to the ancient market town of Kirkby Stephen in plenty of time to see the giddy sights, and to be fair there is a lot of history in the town, much of which is a designated conservation area. I called into the King's Arms for a half of Dent Brewery's Aviator and a bag of crisps, but was put off eating dinner there by the effing and jeffing of the Saturday night lads out brigade. So I stocked up at to dine a la carte from the local store and treated myself to some of the handmade chocolate that I just had to buy in Orton. And now for some R&R ahead of tomorrow's big day when we go up and over the Pennines.
On the internal juke box today: The Clash, "Police and Thieves," Buggles, "Video Killed the Radio Star" and Boomtown Rats "Diamond Smiles." Retro.
Odometer
14.1 miles
Cumulative Miles
94.8
Total Ascent
482 metres
Total Descent
497 metres
Moving Time
4h 54 m
Stopped Time
1h 54 m
Moving Average
2.9 mph
The walk to Kirkby (pronounced Kirby) Stephen was pleasant enough as it transited field and moorland across the Upper Eden Valley and the Howgill Fells. AW mentions several prehistoric sites along the way, though I would agree with the Stedman guide that none of them will make you drop your jaw in amazement, and if you didn't know about them you'd probably pass by none the wiser but still cheered by another great day aboard the C2C path. Best of all though, it didn't rain today!
As a case in point, may I present to you the stone circle just outside Orton. It's not exactly Stonehenge. I think the sheep were quite amused to see me even bothering with the camera there. Apparently this is even more impressive than one I missed yesterday. From here, it was a simple case of heading east all the way, across Tarn Moor to the bird hides at Sunbiggin Tarn where lapwings, curlews and oystercatchers were seen. Also the group of 20 or so cyclists that were making a racket at my hotel in Orton last night (but that was thankfully the last I saw of them).
It was then a matter of tracing dry stone walls across Ravenstonedale Moor with its limestone escarpments to reach the 'Severals,' another important yet barely recognisable important archaeological site. The sun was peeping through at this time, but there were still dark clouds overhead. Having been bitten practically to death by blasted midges in my hair yesterday I wore a hat today thinking to foil them. But the blighters just bit my neck instead. I think the hat did serve as a kind of thinking cap though as my thoughts did have a bit more of a meaning of life bent today (in a good way).
Once the settlements have been thoroughly examined (by walking straight past them), the route drops down across Scandal Beck, and I got a wonderful view of the Smardale Gill viaduct before heading up Smardale Fell. The viaduct was part of the South Durham and Lancashire Union Railway and was closed in 1962. It fell into disrepair but is now a listed building maintained by charitable trust. I may have said it before, but I do like a good viaduct. I was looking out for the 'Giant's Graves' (pillow mounds) on the side of the fell but although I saw them, they are not a patch on the barrows we have in Dorset!
And then to the ancient market town of Kirkby Stephen in plenty of time to see the giddy sights, and to be fair there is a lot of history in the town, much of which is a designated conservation area. I called into the King's Arms for a half of Dent Brewery's Aviator and a bag of crisps, but was put off eating dinner there by the effing and jeffing of the Saturday night lads out brigade. So I stocked up at to dine a la carte from the local store and treated myself to some of the handmade chocolate that I just had to buy in Orton. And now for some R&R ahead of tomorrow's big day when we go up and over the Pennines.
On the internal juke box today: The Clash, "Police and Thieves," Buggles, "Video Killed the Radio Star" and Boomtown Rats "Diamond Smiles." Retro.
Odometer
14.1 miles
Cumulative Miles
94.8
Total Ascent
482 metres
Total Descent
497 metres
Moving Time
4h 54 m
Stopped Time
1h 54 m
Moving Average
2.9 mph