Day 8 - Kirkby Stephen to Keld
30.06.13
DISTANCE WALKED: 12.2 miles
Today was a watershed day, and not just because I might have said a rude word before 9pm. I crossed the half way mark, traversed the Pennines and changed counties from Cumbria to Yorkshire. The watershed is actually the point at which all rivers flow east to drain into the North Sea. Up until this point they have flowed west to the Irish Sea. Another dry day, but incredibly boggy all the way. It started again with the heavy rain not long after I arrived at Keld.
It was a steep climb from Kirkby Stephen up to the cairns at Nine Standards Rigg. There is some debate about their origin, but they are not megalithic. AW says that they appeared on maps as far back as the 1600's and one theory is that they were built to give the marauding Scots the impression that an English Army was camped there. I agree that they are more likely to be boundary markers as the county boundary used to pass between them. They are certainly imposing as you approach them but don't provide much shelter from the cold winds whipping across the Pennines. But there are good views all around.
At 662m, Nine Standards is the last of the really high climbs (but that's not to say it's downhill all the way to Robin Hood's Bay!) And although the descent was not steep it was utterly wet and boggy - crying out for some attention before it erodes too much further. The Pennine watershed is basically a giant sponge and the guide sensibly advises to "avoid the worst bogs by all means possible: backtracking, taking a running jump, using a pole, using your partner as a plank; whatever works for you." Well, Pete wasn't available and I had another comedy fall, but at least this time with a soft landing (my butt is still vivid purple from the last comedy fall on Kidsty Pike). As I followed Ney Gill towards the head of Whitsun Dale, I spotted a black bothy hut and went in to eat my snacks on the wooden tables and benches. I was joined by the "Richmond Ramblers," the oldest of whom was 80 and has only just stopped working as an official guide due to the insurance costs. Fair play and I hope I can stay as fit and agile at 80! They advised me to take the high route again tomorrow, but I am tempted by the easy riverside alternative at this point...will decide in the morning.
The route then contours Cotterby Scar above the River Swale to drop down to the Tan Hill (highest pub in England) road just west of Keld. The hotel here used to be the Youth Hostel but is now privately run and very nice it is too. Coffee and white chocolate flapjacks on arrival. I've ordered fisherman's pie for dinner and am enjoying a pint of Black Sheep 'All Creatures' pale ale as I type. There's a huge drying room here, so socks washed again and a couple of tops.
Today's internal radio gaga included Erasure "Respect," Oasis "Some Might Say" and the Beatles "Across the Universe." 2.6 mph today was pretty good as it was so boggy. I can understand why there are tales of sheep and calves being swallowed up. Thank goodness I only went in ankle deep (so many times).
Odometer
12.2 miles
Cumulative Miles
107
Total Ascent
1196 metres
Total Descent
854 metres
Moving Time
4h 40 m
Stopped Time
2h
Moving Average
2.6 mph
Today was a watershed day, and not just because I might have said a rude word before 9pm. I crossed the half way mark, traversed the Pennines and changed counties from Cumbria to Yorkshire. The watershed is actually the point at which all rivers flow east to drain into the North Sea. Up until this point they have flowed west to the Irish Sea. Another dry day, but incredibly boggy all the way. It started again with the heavy rain not long after I arrived at Keld.
It was a steep climb from Kirkby Stephen up to the cairns at Nine Standards Rigg. There is some debate about their origin, but they are not megalithic. AW says that they appeared on maps as far back as the 1600's and one theory is that they were built to give the marauding Scots the impression that an English Army was camped there. I agree that they are more likely to be boundary markers as the county boundary used to pass between them. They are certainly imposing as you approach them but don't provide much shelter from the cold winds whipping across the Pennines. But there are good views all around.
At 662m, Nine Standards is the last of the really high climbs (but that's not to say it's downhill all the way to Robin Hood's Bay!) And although the descent was not steep it was utterly wet and boggy - crying out for some attention before it erodes too much further. The Pennine watershed is basically a giant sponge and the guide sensibly advises to "avoid the worst bogs by all means possible: backtracking, taking a running jump, using a pole, using your partner as a plank; whatever works for you." Well, Pete wasn't available and I had another comedy fall, but at least this time with a soft landing (my butt is still vivid purple from the last comedy fall on Kidsty Pike). As I followed Ney Gill towards the head of Whitsun Dale, I spotted a black bothy hut and went in to eat my snacks on the wooden tables and benches. I was joined by the "Richmond Ramblers," the oldest of whom was 80 and has only just stopped working as an official guide due to the insurance costs. Fair play and I hope I can stay as fit and agile at 80! They advised me to take the high route again tomorrow, but I am tempted by the easy riverside alternative at this point...will decide in the morning.
The route then contours Cotterby Scar above the River Swale to drop down to the Tan Hill (highest pub in England) road just west of Keld. The hotel here used to be the Youth Hostel but is now privately run and very nice it is too. Coffee and white chocolate flapjacks on arrival. I've ordered fisherman's pie for dinner and am enjoying a pint of Black Sheep 'All Creatures' pale ale as I type. There's a huge drying room here, so socks washed again and a couple of tops.
Today's internal radio gaga included Erasure "Respect," Oasis "Some Might Say" and the Beatles "Across the Universe." 2.6 mph today was pretty good as it was so boggy. I can understand why there are tales of sheep and calves being swallowed up. Thank goodness I only went in ankle deep (so many times).
Odometer
12.2 miles
Cumulative Miles
107
Total Ascent
1196 metres
Total Descent
854 metres
Moving Time
4h 40 m
Stopped Time
2h
Moving Average
2.6 mph